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(No-Egg) Brown Butter Banana Cookies

Time 45 minutes plus soaking time for the raisins
Yields Makes 9 to 10 cookies
Brown Butter Banana Cookies from the "Sift" cookbook by Nicola Lamb.
(Sam A. Harris © 2024; courtesy of Clarkson Potter/Crown Publishing)
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This little egg-free cookie comes together very quickly. Soaking the raisins in rum for a few hours takes the flavors to the next level, but you could just as easily soak them in boiling water for 10 minutes to speed things up. These cookies are my homage to Milli Taylor’s famously good Brown Butter Banana Bread — all the comforting flavors in a miniature package. As ever, the blacker and gooier the bananas you begin with, the better!

Editor’s note: These cookies didn’t spread as much as the ones in the photo, but were delicious, oat-y and buttery.

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1

To soak the raisins, pour the rum over them and cover. Let rest for at least 2 hours, but they will keep for up to 1 month in the fridge. To speed this up, you can warm the rum to about 140 degrees before pouring it over the raisins.

2

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a mixing bowl, mix the melted brown butter, granulated sugar and brown sugar until combined.

3

Add the mashed banana to the bowl and stir until combined.

4

Sift in the flour, baking soda and ground allspice or ground cloves. Add the oats and flaky salt, then mix until just combined. Fold in the drained rum raisins.

5

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Scoop 60-gram (2¼-ounce) balls of dough onto the lined baking sheet — try to keep them as round and even as possible. Leave space between the cookies to allow space to spread.

Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, or until the edges are golden brown.

6

Remove from the oven and let the cookies cool on the baking sheet for a few minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack to cool completely. The cookies will last in an airtight container for three days.

From “Sift: The Elements of Great Baking” by Nicola Lamb (Clarkson Potter)
Make Ahead:
To make brown butter: Add butter to a pan over medium heat and listen for the water to stop evaporating. Once it’s quiet, pay attention to the pan and start checking the color, occasionally stirring and scraping the pan to release the browned milk solids that are gathering. If you don’t agitate them, they’ll burn really quickly before the butter has reached the desired color. So, what is the right color?

It depends. For cakes, cookies or biscuits, I like to go dark! I also like to leave all the flecks of the brown/burnt milk solids in for extra flavor hits. In some kitchens, the chefs prefer to sieve all of this out, but I’m not one of them.

There wil be some carryover cooking because once heated up, fat can hold and retain heat extremely well. So, once you have your desired color, get it off the heat before it accidentally heads into bitter territory. Remember, you can always heat it back up and brown it more if you need to. And don’t forget that the final weight of brown butter will be about 20% to 25% less than the original quantity of butter, so always do more than you need.